Seeing a bit of southern Spain
My friend Laura and I had been looking for an opportunity to travel a bit in Spain, and decided on Andalusia. Airport options were Seville and Málaga, and Málaga worked out best. We could coordinate our arrivals (from opposite directions) so we’d be together from the very first transfer. The only thing we booked in advance was a place to stay in Málaga for the first two nights, to give us an easy start and some time to plan the rest. We stayed downtown, as we were both interested in seeing the city – and of course, in feeling like we’d arrived in Spain rather than finding ourselves on a could-be-anywhere beach.
My main aim was to spend time with my friend, but I had two other desires: to see a friend in Antequera (Málaga province) and to see Seville. Laura was game for both, and thought Córdoba and Granada could complete the plan. We’d already agreed that there would be no need to rent a car in order to visit cities. Traveling by train or bus would be a lot more relaxing. As we looked at schedules, we saw Córdoba could be a first stop, then Granada, over to Seville and lastly Antequera before our flights out. Ten nights total, just do-able.
By the time we’d gotten settled in Córdoba, we were doubting how many transfers we really wanted to make in these days. We checked on access to some of the main attractions. I’m sure you’re thinking of the Alhambra in Granada, just as we were. It turns out that needs to be booked well in advance, probably especially when you get to the shoulder season – which is how I’d think of our early May dates – and certainly in summer. Laura has been to Granada, I haven’t, but intend to visit the Antequera friend a number of times in the next years, so I should have other chances.
After that, our thoughts of Granada were easily discarded. Fewer transfers! I’m sure everyone should go if there’s an opportunity, and most definitely if planning ahead secures Alhambra tickets. But we know that Andalusia is full of splendid sites and it would be impossible to feel shortchanged, wherever we ended up. We both felt enormously relieved after agreeing upon this abbreviation of our route! Sometimes less really is more.
Neither one of us is the sort of tourist who has to see it all, and works through a checklist of every major attraction. We’d rather walk a lot to see a city, get a feel of it, stop for coffees or a drink, and enjoy our time at a natural pace. You could book completely full days of sightseeing and catch a lot more museums, cathedrals and monuments than we did. We’ll grant you kudos but we won’t be envious. It’s a matter of personal preference.
How we spent our ten days in Andalusia
It’s hard for me to not write “Andalucia” – the Spanish spelling!
I’m giving an account of our days, from sightseeing through transfers and basic expenses, hoping that it will be helpful as a base for others thinking about a similar trip. You can see what we found possible at a leisurely-enough pace to enjoy things our way, and make your own adjustments.
Málaga
Immediately, we were astounded by the beautiful Jacaranda trees in all the parks and plazas. How lucky to be there in May when all were in bloom!
We weren’t ambitious after traveling, so after settling into our apartment-hotel, we walked around town with no destination in mind other than some grocery stores. We cooked in that night and made our plans over red wine – how else?
Refreshed and ready to explore the next day, we started by clambering around the Castillo de Gibralfaro and the Alcazaba, taking in the views. We saw the Roman columns, and went on to enjoy the waterfront and port. After sharing fresh fish and white wine for a late lunch, we walked more, until late in the day when we visited the Picasso Museum (open till 7 pm) in Buenavista Palace, which dates to around 1500. We were satisfied with our Málaga sightseeing.
On to Córdoba, with a Spanish SIM card for data
We just walked a bit in Málaga, till time to check out, when we rolled our suitcases off to a cafe. We went on to the station quite early, which gave me time to get a Spanish SIM card at Yoigo right in the station. Ten euros gave us plenty of data for maps and info. The other phone shops would not sell a tourist sim: either they didn’t have them in stock, or they would only deal with contract plans for people with residency. So make a note of Yoigo!
Our Córdoba lodging was hard to find, and we had to drag our bags further than expected after a taxi took us to where we picked up the keys. Once settled, we took our taxi driver’s good recommendation of Casa Pedro Jimenez for glasses of wine and a couple of tapas. We were nearly keeping Spanish hours that day, with tapas at 6 pm. But we ate dinner before 9 pm, not really local style! That was at Moriles Ribera, and between the two spots we saw a lot of the town and lingered around the Guadalquivir riverfront. Note that the whole historic center of Córdoba is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so just taking in the architecture and the parks is a very satisfying way to spend time.
The Mezquita of Córdoba can be visited for free
The next day we had a serious purpose: to visit the Mezquita, or Mosque-Cathedral. Entry is free from 8:30 to 9:30 a.m. during the week (Tuesday-Friday), so we headed out early, arriving a bit after 8 and finding th